Anne Lister and the French Royalty
Published on 1 July, 2024
In Paris under Louis XVIII and Charles X, Anne Lister rarely missed an opportunity to see the French Royal family, in turmoil since the Revolution of 1789. She was struck by the tragic fate of their ancestor Marie-Antoinette and followed the misadventures of the rebellious Duchess de Berry under Louis-Philippe.
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When Anne Lister first visited Paris with her aunt in 1819, three decades after the French Revolution and four years after the fall of Napoleon, Louis XVIII had re-established the Bourbon monarchy on the throne of France. She managed to get admission to a mass in the chapel of the Palais des Tuileries where they had “an excellent view” of “Monsieur” the King's brother (the future Charles X), his son the Duke of Angoulême, and his wife Marie-Thérèse (Marie-Antoinette's daughter)¹. Seeing the royal family was the “most particular wish” of her aunt, Anne claimed. But over the years, she rarely missed an opportunity to see a member of the Bourbons or visit places of interest associated with this dynasty.
“Poor Marie-Antoinette!”
“Marie-Antoinette, was one of the most amiable and gracious people we have ever seen on the throne, and there was nothing to prevent her from retaining the love of the French, for she had done nothing to lose it.”
– Madame de Staël, Considérations sur les principaux événements de la Révolution Française (1818)
Was it by reading these lines in 1820, from Madame de Staël in defense of the Queen of France, that Anne Lister forged her sympathy for her?² Far from condemning Marie-Antoinette like those who had sent her to the guillotine during the Revolution, Anne was moved by her tragic fate.
Portrait of Marie-Antoinette, Queen of France, painted by Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun via Wikimedia Commons (PDM 1.0)
First with her aunt, then with Mariana Lawton, and later with Ann Walker, she visited the Château de Versailles, where Marie-Antoinette had lived for almost twenty years. The youngest daughter of Empress of Austria, she had been sent to France to marry the Dauphin at the age of 15. In 1819, Anne discovered a derelict palace, still bearing the scars of 6 October 1789, when the people invaded Versailles, forcing Marie-Antoinette and her husband the King Louis XVI, to flee to Paris. “They shewed us the door whence this unfortunate princess escaped”, she wrote in her journal.³
Marie-Antoinette’s room in the Château de Versailles. She escaped through the concealed door on the left.
J. Lascar, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 2.0)
In 1826, Anne found the rooms “new done up” and “the walls covered with pictures and magnificent as gilding, paintings, and mirrors could make them."⁴ In the meantime, Louis XVIII and his successor, Charles X, had undertaken to restore Versailles–much to the delight of Mariana Lawton:
“Mariana thought she had never seen grander before – Windsor Castle nothing to it – no one’s mind could be large enough without seeing Versailles.”
Anne Lister, 2 September 1826 (SH:7/ML/E/9/0154)
Anne was particularly fond of the Trianon estate, which Louis XVI had given to Marie-Antoinette. The Queen had laid out a Swiss village and gardens with a rock grotto there:
“to my mind the prettiest things at Versailles – very pretty little bijou to relieve the eye after all the other formal grandeur.”
Anne Lister, 2 September 1826 (SH:7/ML/E/9/0154)
With Ann Walker, Anne passed two times through Varennes, the village where Marie-Antoinette and her family were arrested in 1791 as they attempted to flee Paris. “Poor Louis 16! stayed to eat a turkey for dinner – recognized and taken here in the night of 21 June 1791” she wrote after breakfasting in this “picturesque little town."⁵
Marie-Antoinette in the Conciergerie prison in 1793. Unknown author, Wikimedia Commons (PDM 1.0)
Anne also saw one of the prisons where Marie-Antoinette was held. From the moment her friend Isabella Norcliffe told her about “the room at the Conçiergerie, where the poor Queen of France was confined,” she had been determined to see it.⁶ With Maria Barlow, she visited the Expiatory chapel built in 1816 on the spot of the “formerly dark, damp cells where Marie Antoinette and the princess Elizabeth were confined (separated only by a wall though they did not know they were so near)."⁷ This last piece of information was one of the many myths surrounding the Queen's final days in 1793.
In reality, while she was imprisoned there, her sister-in-law Elizabeth was detained with Marie-Thérèse, the Queen's daughter, in the Prison du Temple. What the princess “did not know” when she was eventually sent to the Conciergerie to be tried and condemned to death, was that Marie-Antoinette had already suffered the same fate six months earlier.⁸ This 'interesting” place, where an altar had been erected and an extract from Marie-Antoinette's last letter to Madame Elisabeth engraved, made Anne and Maria shiver:
Expiatory chapel in Marie-Antoinette's former cell at the beginning of the 20th century, at the Conciergerie in Paris (BnF / Gallica)
“lighted and aired ventilated as they now are, Mrs. Barlow could still scarcely bear the cold damp floor – what must it have been during the revolution?”
Anne Lister, 14 March 1825 (SH:7/ML/E/8/0134)
A few months later, Miss Lister took Mariana Lawton there. Her feelings of compassion for the Queen had not changed, but her opinion about the place did–perhaps under the influence of her lover?
“what bad taste! — why not have left the place just as it was when poor Marie Antoinette was confined there (76 days)?”
Anne Lister, 20 September 1826 (SH:7/ML/E/9/0160)
Marie-Antoinette was kept there from 2 August to 16 October 1793, the day she was executed. Her remains were then buried in the Cimetière de la Madeleine, where another Expiatory chapel was inaugurated in 1826. Anne saw it in April 1827. “Much pleased with it”, she noted in her journal a macabre anecdote: “one of the garters of the queen with the coronet in gold on it was found on the knee bone.”⁹
The Queen of France, often derogatorily referred to as “The Austrian”¹⁰, was condemned to death for allegedly plotting with foreign powers. But it was another type of attack, much more personal, that Mrs. Barlow and Anne Lister talked about at the beginning of their relationship:
“Somehow she began talking of that one of the things of which Marie Antoinette was accused was being too fond of women.”
Anne Lister, 14 October 1824 (SH:7/ML/E/8/0058)
Marie-Antoinette had been the target of a violent campaign of caricatures, which portrayed her as having an unbridled sexuality. Among her many alleged lovers were women, particularly two of her closest friends, the Princesse de Lamballe and the Duchesse de Polignac.¹¹
Still on her guard about revealing her own sexuality, Anne feigned shock and ignorance in the face of this information:
“I with perfect mastery of countenance said I had never heard it of her before and could not understand or believe it, did not see how such a thing could be, what good it could do.”
Anne Lister, 14 October 1824 (SH:7/ML/E/8/0058)
Although there is no historical evidence for these allegations, they may have aroused Anne's curiosity about Marie-Antoinette. In 1830, she quoted in her journal a passage from her friend Mary Berry’s book¹² imagining an alternative destiny for the “unfortunate queen” who might have been, in other circumstances “an amiable and fascinating individual, in the best society of her capitale.”¹³
Caricature depicting Marie-Antoinette and the Duchesse de Polignac in 1789. (BnF / Gallica), “I only breathe for you. Kiss me, my beautiful angel.”
Section Footnotes
1. SH:7/ML/E/3/0044
2. SH:7/ML/E/4/0040
3. SH:7/ML/E/3/0030
4. SH:7/ML/E/9/0154
5. SH:7/ML/E/22/0059
6. SH:7/ML/E/8/0118
7. SH:7/ML/E/8/0134
8. La vie de Madame Elisabeth, sœur de Louis XVI. MA de Beauchesne, 1869
9. SH:7/ML/E/10/0087
10. Marie-Antoinette by Antonia Fraser (2001)
11. Id.
12. A comparative view of the social life of England and France, Mary Berry (1828)
13. SH:7/ML/E/13/0130
Louis XVIII is dead, Long live Charles X?
Louis XVIII lying in state in the Palais des Tuileries in September, 1824 by Chasselat via Wikimedia Commons (PDM 1.0)
In power since the fall of Napoleon in 1815, Louis XVIII died shortly after Anne Lister settled in Paris in September 1824. She got tickets to the Palais des Tuileries to see the King lying in state in the throne room:
“above 50 tall candles (1 1/2 yard high at least) immediately round the coffin — at the head, on each side stood a herald, at the foot on the right the Dauphin (Duc d’Angouleme).”
Anne Lister, 19 September 1824 (SH:7/ML/E/8/0045)
Louis XVIII was then transported to the Basilique of Saint-Denis, the royal necropolis, to be exhibited to the public. As the procession passed by the Place Vendôme, Anne followed it from the drawing room of Madame de Boyve's pension, where she was staying: “the 1st troops passed our window at 10 1/4 — the body of the King, on a superbly gilded car.”¹⁴
Funeral of Louis XVIII, the procession passing through the Place Vendôme on 23 September, 1824. (BnF / Gallica)
Anne thought the cortege “splendid”, except for the National Guard (the citizens’ militias), arguing that “perhaps almost all our volunteer regiments would have kept better in line.”
A month later, another procession, taking the royal family to Saint-Denis for the funeral, passed through Place Vendôme. But Anne Lister, who was getting inexorably closer to Mrs. Barlow, had other things on her mind:
“the King buried today at St. Denis — I was with Mrs. Barlow and too much interested to get up and see the royal carriages pass.”
Anne Lister, 25 October 1824 (SH:7/ML/E/8/0064)
On 27 September, the new King Charles X (Louis XVI and Louis XVIII's brother) crossed Paris to receive the keys of the city and attend a mass at Notre-Dame. It was a rainy day, and Mrs. Mackenzie, one of Madame de Boyve's pensioners, persuaded Anne not to go out. But Mrs. Barlow made her change her mind: “[She] told me by all means to go out, and see the King — I ought not to miss it.”¹⁵ Anne hurried towards the Pont des arts, where she “took [her] station mounted on a chair for which I paid ten sols." After waiting almost two hours, “at 1 time almost stunned with the noise of the cannon”, she saw the monarch and his suite:
“They passed me quite close, and I had an excellent view — his majesty smiled and looked the picture of good humour — and as if he was in excellent health.”
Anne Lister, 25 October 1824 (SH:7/ML/E/8/0050)
Charles X on his way to Notre-Dame de Paris on 27 September, 1824. Nicolas Gosse, via Wikimedia Commons (PDM 1.0)
She saw Charles X again on the Champ de Mars five days later and on 29 April 1827, for the review of the Garde Nationale, that marked a turning point in his reign.¹⁶ That day, Anne, Mrs. Barlow, and her daughter Jane “got seat there under a comfortable awning (price 2/. each).”¹⁷ But Anne thought it was not worth the wait (more than three hours): it was “a stupid business on the whole to us”, Mrs. Barlow had a headache “in consequence of the noise and heat” and she was sure “Englishmen would have seemed more hearty” in cheering their king.
She thought however that Charles X “would be well enough satisfied." She was wrong. Amid the cheers, attacks against the government and insults against the royal family were launched. If Anne did not hear it, it is probably because it was the work of a minority. But the King did, and reacted brutally by dismissing the whole Garde Nationale.¹⁸ She came to know about it only the next day, through her aunt:
“the King was not pleased yesterday at the national guard calling out among their vive le roi, ‘abas les ministres, abas les Jesuites’ [‘Down with ministers, down with Jesuits',], and he had disbanded them all.”
Anne Lister, 30 April 1827 (SH:7/ML/E/10/0087)
Anne “said it was impossible – could not believe it” and went off immediately to buy the Moniteur Universel, where the official announcements were printed:
Le Moniteur Universel, 30 April 1827. (BnF / Gallica)
“the 1st thing was the ordonnance dated yesterday ‘La garde nationale est licenciée’ [‘The National Guard is sacked’] – Told the woman I had heard, but could not believe it till I read it myself – she said everybody said so – everybody in astonishment.”
Anne Lister, 30 April 1827 (SH:7/ML/E/10/0087)
This decision was not only a surprise, it was a political mistake: it widened the gulf between the government and the Parisian bourgeoisie who formed the Garde Nationale. They put their weapons away, but would take them out again during the Revolution of July 1830, three bloody days that left around 1,000 people dead and forced Charles X from power. The King abdicated in favour of his grandson Henri, the Duke of Bordeaux, aged nine. But his cousin, the Duke of Orléans from the cadet branch of the Bourbons, who was supposed to be regent, was proclaimed King instead, under the name of Louis-Philippe.
Section Footnotes
14. SH:7/ML/E/8/0047
15. SH:7/ML/E/8/0050
16. SH:7/ML/E/8/0051
17. SH:7/ML/E/10/0087
18. Grand dictionnaire universel du XIXe siècle, Pierre Larousse (1866-1890)
Renegade Duchesse de Berry
As the most popular member of the French royal family, Marie-Caroline de Bourbon-Sicile, the Duchess de Berry, soon attracted the attention of Anne Lister. The cheerful and rebellious daughter of the King of the Two Sicilies had married the Duc de Berry, son of the future Charles X and potential heir to the throne of France, in 1816. But after four years of a rather happy marriage, and the birth of a daughter, Louise, her husband was assassinated by a Bonapartist in February 1820.
On a trip to Paris in May 1820, Isabella Norcliffe wrote to Anne she had seen Louise, a “most lovely infant” but not the famous duchess – “still very dejected and goes nowhere”.¹⁹ However, in September, Marie-Caroline gave birth to Henri, Duc de Bordeaux – a new heir, a “miracle child” brought into the world seven months after his father's death – and regained hope and even more popularity.
More than anywhere else, the duchess was a celebrity in Dieppe, on the Normandy coast, where she helped make sea baths fashionable: going to watch her enter the water – in court dress! — became the summer social event.²⁰
In 1824, the city renamed its luxurious bathing establishment after this unconventional princess. Anne Lister and Mariana Lawton were part of the crowd that visited these “Bains de Caroline” during the summer 1826, after attending a military mass where they were delighted to see the Duchess up close:
“she gently inclined her head to us on entering and retiring, and did it gracefully.”
Anne Lister, 27 August 1826 (SH:7/ML/E/9/0150)
A few days later, they were allowed to visit her Château de Rosny, but were quite disappointed. “M- [Mariana] owns the French understand furnishing better than we — but for its tasteful furniture, this chateau would be a bad old mass of shabby comfortless rooms”, according to Anne.²¹ However, they thought the tomb where Marie-Caroline had had the heart of the Duc de Berry laid to rest “very handsome."
The bath of the Duchess de Berry, accompanied by Dieppe's mayor. Cover of the "Petit Illustré", 27 May, 1934. (BnF / Gallica)
View of the “Bains de mer Caroline” in the time of the Duchess de Berry, 1826. © Bibliothéque de Dieppe.
Anne Lister followed in the duchess’ footsteps in the mountains as well: in 1828, in the Pyrénées, Marie-Caroline had climbed the Pic du Midi and the Brèche de Roland²² both in sedan chairs and on foot. During her ascent of Vignemale in 1838, Miss Lister was shown “the rochers à pic and glacier and col and snow over which the duchesse de Berri was carried on.”²³ The journey had indeed been perilous:
“the interminable steep slope of rock and turf that separates this mountain from the glaciers, the three crossings of icy, steeply sloping snow that had to be crossed in succession (...) the crashing falls of stones, rocks and avalanches of ice, nothing intimidated the Princess.”
– Two months in the Pyrénées with Marie-Caroline de Naples,
duchesse de Berry, Pierre de Gorsse (1936)
Anne and Marie-Caroline hired the same guide, Jean-Pierre Charles.²⁴ In July 1838, when Anne returned to the Pyrenees with Ann Walker, he showed them the medals the Duchess had given him – “excellent likeness of herself and on the reverse, her son given in 1829.” ²⁵
Medals of the Duchesse de Berry and the Duc de Bordeaux by Dubois (1827). © Musée du Louvre
When the Revolution broke out in July 1830, ousted Charles X from the throne, and forced the royal family into exile, Miss Lister was traveling in South-West France with Lady Stuart de Rothesay, the wife of the British Ambassador to France. Both knew personally the Duchesse de Berry. “She was not pretty, but she was a great charmer. To listen half an hour to her prattle is worth two glasses of good wine”, once said Lord Stuart de Rothesay.²⁶
Although there had been some tension between the British Embassy and the Duchess,²⁷ Lady Stuart de Rothesay was present at key moments in Marie-Caroline's life. In two letters to The Countess of Hardwicke in 1820, she recounts the assassination of the Duc de Berry – “the courage of the Duchess was amazing” – and the ceremony during which she met her newborn son Henri: “It looked as if the purpose of her life was past, and that she might expire bequeathing her child to France."²⁸
The two women evolved in the same Parisian circles, and in the same parties: on the occasion of a costume ball on 2 March 1829, both their portraits were drawn, the Duchesse de Berry as Marie Stuart, and Lady Stuart as Marie de Lorraine, Queen of Scots.²⁹
The Duchesse de Berry and Lady Stuart de Rothesay disguised as Marie Stuart and Marie de Lorraine on 2 march 1829 at the Tuileries by Eugène Lami, Wikimedia Commons (PDM 1.0) and Wikimedia Commons (PDM 1.0)
Due to the Revolution, Anne and Lady Stuart were worried about the Duchess and her son, who had lost his position as heir to the throne of France. In August 1830, Anne regretted that it was "not known where the royal family are” and that “nothing [was] said of the little Duke de Bordeaux” in the Galignani’s Messenger. In September, she reported that the ambassador's wife eventually received a message “to say she, the duchess, loved her (Lady Stuart) with all her heart." And with good reason: she had found refuge with Charles X's court to Bath, and then – by a twist of fate – to Marie Stuart's palace at Holyrood, in Scotland.
In December, the duchess’ possessions were put up for auction. Before the sale (which lasted nine days!), Anne Lister went to look at them. A sight that sent a chill down her spine:
“The room was hung round with her dresses, and couvre-pieds, and pictures (...) There was a black velvet gold-embroidered gown that stood out from the wall almost as if the little person herself had been there without a head — It was an oddly melancholy sight — Heaven grant the like may never be in England!”
Anne Lister to Lady Gordon, 29 November 1830 (SH:7/ML/E/13/0114)
However, the Duchess de Berry refused to be swept from history. She planned to ignite an uprising of the French “legitimists”, who believed that the throne, usurped by Louis-Philippe, should be regained for her son, under the name of Henry V. Like Anne, her friends and her French and Italian teacher, Madame Galvani: “she thinks we shall have Henry Cinq by and by, gives Louis Philip only two or three months then a Republic and then the little Henri.”³⁰
After passing through Holland, Germany and Italy, the Duchesse de Berry landed on the night of 28 April, 1832 in Provence, in Southern France. Her expedition failed, but she managed to escape and planned to launch a new rebellion from the Vendée region, the Royalists’ bastion.
On 12 May, however, Anne read in the London Courier that she had been stopped: “the Duchess de Berri and suite taken in the Carlo Alberto steamer.”³¹ A woman had indeed been arrested on board of this boat, lent to the Duchess by an Italian shipowner for her expedition. But it was her lady's maid, disguised as her mistress.³² The latter was still actively sought. That’s why Isabella Norcliffe, who was travelling from Guernsey to Normandy in August, wrote to Anne that the authorities were “very particular about the passports for France on account of the fears of the French government of the duchesse de Berri.”³³
Anne eventually learned of the Duchess’ arrest in the Courier on 13 November, 1832: “the Duchesse de Berri taken at last,”³⁴ after hiding in a chimney for several hours. The six-month run had ended a few days earlier in Nantes. Curious to know more, Anne immediately opened her French Itinerary to read about the citadel of Blaye, where she was sent and detained.³⁵
The Duchess taken out of a chimney and arrested on November 7, 1832 in Nantes, by N. Maurin. (BnF / Gallica)
The Duchess’ story did not end in this luxury prison. Even if Anne had heard from Madame de Rosny, with whom she stayed in Paris in 1828, that “the Duchess de Berri has amants [lovers],”³⁶ she was astonished to discover she was pregnant:
“the Duchesse de Berri en famille! — says to the French government she was secretly married in Italy to an Italian prince!”
Anne Lister, 2 March 1833 (SH:7/ML/E/16/0024)
The Duchess had indeed secretly married the prince Hector Lucchesi-Palli in Italy in 1831. In her letters to Lady Stuart de Rothesay, Anne remained cautious on this subject: “the poor duchesse de Berri! what a shocking dénouement!” But the new rumours circulating in the press, though often fake or exaggerated, aroused indignation among her former high society supporters, as shown by a conversation between Anne and her friend Miss Sophie O'Ferrall:
“said to have 4 or 5 children at Rosny — Poor Hector Lucchesi Palli very sorry for himself — had nothing to do with the last child.”
Anne Lister, 4 September 1833 (SH:7/ML/E/16/0104)
The identity of the father of Anne Marie Rosalie, the "child of Blaye" who was born on 10 May, 1833, and died six months later, is still a mystery,³⁷ But apart from Louise and Henri, the Duchess had no other children. Yet. Not so “very sorry for himself”, Lucchesi-Palli had four daughters with her between 1835 and 1840.³⁸
Regardless of the truth, the destruction of the reputation of the Duchess was under way. It also emerged from the conversation between Anne and Miss 'Ferrall' that “the French found papers in her apartments at the Revolution proving her a very Messaline” (the wife of the Roman emperor Claudius, portrayed as a dangerous, greedy and debauched woman). That was actually one of the rumors spread at the time by the House of Orléans, the King Louis-Philippe's branch of the royal family, with a name already used by the detractors of... Marie-Antoinette.³⁹
Although Anne Lister continued in her letters to Lady Stuart de Rothesay to wish for the coronation of the son of the Duchesse de Berry, she came to recognise some qualities in Louis-Philippe, perhaps more virtuous than the princess:
“Whatever his majesty of the barricades [Louis-Philippe's nickname] may be as a king, he is generally esteemed a good family man, a good husband, and good father, in short, bon enfant, as the French emphatically say; and I never heard of his having an ‘accredited mistress’.”
Anne Lister to Mrs Norcliffe, 4 May 1834 (SH:7/ML/E/17/0026)
Faced with a revolutionary threat that could spread to the rest of Europe and – worst of all – to England, any king was better in Anne Lister’s eyes than no king at all. This time, she was not on the right side of history: Louis-Philippe, in turn overthrown by the Revolution of 1848, would be the last king of France.
Section Footnotes
19. SH:7/ML/E/4/0051
20. La villégiature à Dieppe sous la Restauration, Isabelle Taillandier (1990)
21. SH:7/ML/E/9/0154
22. Two months in the Pyrénées with Marie-Caroline de Naples, duchesse de Berry by Pierre de Gorsse (1936)
23. SH:7/ML/E/21/0161 Transcript: Francesca Raia
24. SH:7/ML/E/13/0078
25. SH:7/ML/E/21/0155 Transcript: Francesca Raia
26. Biography of the comte de Chambord, the Times, 1870
27. The Story of Two Noble Lives, Augustus John Cuthbert Hare (1893)
28. Id.
29. Id.
30. SH:7/ML/E/14/0029
31. Qui a trahi la Duchesse de Berry ? Jean-Claude Caron, BNF/Retronews (2018)
32. La Duchesse de Berry, l’oiseau rebelle des Bourbons, Laure Hillerin (2016)
33. SH:7/ML/E/15/0106
34. SH:7/ML/E/15/0147
35. SH:7/ML/E/15/0150
36. SH:7/ML/E/10/0126
37. La Duchesse de Berry, l’oiseau rebelle des Bourbons, Laure Hillerin (2016)
38. Id.
39. Confession dernière, et testament de Marie-Antoinette, pamphlet (1793)
References
Considérations sur les principaux événemens de la Révolution Française, Madame de Staël (1818)
La vie de Madame Elisabeth, sœur de Louis XVI. MA de Beauchesne, 1869.
Marie-Antoinette by Antonia Fraser (2001)
Confession dernière, et testament de Marie-Antoinette, pamphlet (1793)
Grand dictionnaire universel du XIXe siècle, Pierre Larousse (1866-1890)
La Duchesse de Berry, l’oiseau rebelle des Bourbons, Laure Hillerin (2016)
The Story of Two Noble Lives, Augustus John Cuthbert Hare (1893)
Deux mois dans les Pyrénées avec Marie-Caroline de Naples, duchesse de Berry by Pierre de Gorsse (1936)
La villégiature à Dieppe sous la Restauration, Isabelle Taillandier (1990)
Acknowledgments
Special thanks to the West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale and the #AnneListerCodeBreakers for the transcriptions of Anne Lister’s journals, as well as to Steph Gallaway and Sarah Wingrove for their help reviewing this article.
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